Andros has been on my radar since 2021 when I lived in Amsterdam. Sometimes you don’t know why you go somewhere at a certain time in your life, but last summer proved that it’s exactly when you’re meant to.
I think what I wasn’t expecting was how green it was. How quiet. Lush mountains tumbling down to the sea. The flowers were amazing, a completely different flora and fauna to anything I’d experienced on the other islands. Andros is the type of place that doesn’t reveal itself all at once. It builds, and grows as your circadian rhythm slows down to its pattern. It’s the kind of island that makes you feel like you found something special.
I didn’t want to leave.
We took a day trip to another island while we were there, and it was in arriving back on the ferry to Andros that it really hit us. There is a deeper calmness to this island than anywhere I’ve been. You don’t fully notice it until you leave and come back, and then you feel it in your whole body.
I arrived not knowing a single restaurant or shop on the island. We asked locals, looked at guides, and came across the most incredible gems. Everything in this guide was found during my mom and I’s two week adventure in Andros.
Ferry to Andros
Ferry from Rafina, not Piraeus, which is worth knowing before you plan. Rafina is about 30 minutes from Athens airport, and the crossing takes around two hours. (I love Golden Star Ferries and find it to be comfortable. I like to scope out a table seat next to the cafe).
Where to Stay
Aneroussa Beach Hotel — Batsi
Aneroussa is magic itself. Perched above a private beach with the most beautiful views over the ocean, it has an energy that’s hard to put into words. You just feel it the moment you arrive. We selected it not knowing much, and loved it so much we ended up staying for ten days. Efi and the team make you feel like old friends immediately. It genuinely feels like home. We kept saying we’d leave and then didn’t.
The rooms are so comfortable, and falling asleep to the sound of the ocean every night is something I’ll carry with me for a long time. Down at the private beach there’s a little beach bar with the coziest chairs; the kind you sink into and suddenly an hour has passed. There is a calmness to this place that resets your nervous system. This is somewhere we will be coming back to again and again. We kept saying that if Aneroussa was the only thing we experienced on Andros, it would be enough to keep coming back. If you go to Andros, stay here. Book direct.


Gavrio
Most people arrive in Gavrio and keep moving. Don’t.
It’s worth wandering around and soaking it in before you head further into the island. I found a clothing store here that I loved, Maéve Clothing, and went back multiple times. A year later I’m still wearing a shirt I bought there at least two days a week. That’s the best review I can give.
If you’re hungry, make the drive out to Kossis. I didn’t make it there this trip, but every single local we spoke to brought it up. A legendary family-run farm taverna just outside of town in Ano Fellos, famous for its meat, where the owner raises his own animals and grows his own vegetables. It’s first on our list for next time.
Batsi
I could sit and watch the world, and the boats, go by all day in Batsi. The evenings are when it really comes alive. Families having dinner by the water, a sunset drink at the harbour, kids getting ice cream. There is something so genuinely lovely about it. By the third night we were recognizing regulars, even a little Jack Russell that reminded us of our pup back home.
Agia Taverna — Right near Aneroussa, a family-run local taverna next to the water. We went our first night on the island and watched the sun go down over the ocean with the best tzatziki and stuffed peppers I’ve ever had. We went back too many times to count. That first evening set the tone for the whole trip.
Capriccio — The spot for a sunset cocktail in Batsi. It’s set right above the bay with cool aesthetics. It’s been the go-to bar on the island and you can feel why.
Almi Tavern — The best view of Batsi, hands down. The whole bay spread out in front of you while you eat. The appetizers are insane; the feta with honey and the tzatziki alone are worth coming for. We went so many times that they started ordering gluten free pasta for us. That’s when you know you’ve found your place. You can’t go to Andros without going to Almi.
Branda — Don’t leave Batsi without eating here. The mushroom risotto is incredible and they can make it gluten free, which I always appreciate. The wine selection was lovely, and the appetizers were delicious. I loved the aesthetic of Branda as well. It really made you feel like you were in somewhere special.
Oti Kalo — Up high with a lovely view over the Batsi port. The kind of spot where you order something simple and end up staying for the sunset. We loved all of their appetizers and went back frequently.
Mastello — Right on the water in Batsi, a seafood restaurant that takes its ingredients seriously. Locally sourced from Cycladic producers. I didn’t get a chance to go here this trip, and I’m excited to visit it next time.


Zorkos Beach
To get to Zorkos you take a winding, cliffy drive that requires a confident driver. It’s narrow and dramatic and not for the faint-hearted. You come around the bend and there it is: a completely secluded beach with the most crystal blue water. We kept receiving this recommendation from locals and glad we went on the adventure.
Chora
Chora is the capital of Andros and has adorable shops, tasty coffee, and restaurants that will make you stay there from sunrise to sundown. It was a bit of a drive from Batsi, and so you’ll definitely need a car.
Zairis — The best bakery on the island, and worth the drive from Batsi just for the gluten-free almond cookies alone. Pick up a box. You’ll be glad you did.
Ta Skalakia — I haven’t been yet but it is top on my list. A traditional family taverna tucked down the steps just off the main pedestrian street, full of vintage signs and local memorabilia.
Waikiki — The best shop in Chora. Beautiful dresses, everything merchandised so well. The kind of store you walk into for five minutes and come out an hour later. If you’re in Chora, don’t skip it. My mom found a beautiful flowy dress.
Birki — The best coffee I had on the island. Get the iced oat latte. It’s set in a beautiful building in Chora and the people watching is incredible. Locals and visitors chill out in chairs at the front, catching up with friends in that relaxed Greek way.
This trip was one of the most memorable experiences I’ve had. It felt like it was just the beginning of a story with a place. To be continued.
Olivia x
More from Greece: Paros · Milos
All photos were taken on 35mm film.













